Prior to our recent Japan trip I got the Fujifilm itch again (for the third time) so went out and purchased a Fujifilm X-T5 along with what I would call a midrange lens selection. In the weeks that followed in the lead up to the trip I agonized over wether I actually wanted to take the X-T5 or the Sony A7CII, and the one left behind would be what I would sell to fund lens purchases for the other. I wrote about this in more detail and my lens selection here.
In hindsight I'm really not sure why I imposed this urgency to make a decision upon myself, perhaps it was the feeling that I had just shelled out a considerable amount of money on a new system and about to head on holiday, and that I needed to recoup some funds to bring an inner peace to my conscience.
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| Fujifilm X-T5 in Silver |
I still maintain that the Sony A7CII is the perfect camera. From a technical standpoint you aren't left wanting for much else with a large sensor and the sweet spot for resolution at 33MP. It has a compact form factor whilst retaining an EVF. It has a long lasting battery and a good grip. It has just the right amount of controls and buttons. But, it lacks dual card slots and more importantly, it just lacks a soul. The biggest detractor for me is the shutter sound. It is awful and some have speculated that it's actually a fake sound played through a speaker. Whatever it is, it completely lacks any satisfaction when pressing the shutter and that may not sound like a big deal, but to me it is.
I got super lucky with the A7CII. Currently it sells for over $3,200. I purchased in the Boxing Day Sales directly from Sony for $2,800 with $200 cash back, making it $2,600. Thanks to the current prices I was able to sell second hand for $2,700, thus making a profit. Winning!
That meant I was committed to the X-T5 for my trip along with the lenses I had purchased. Would I be happy with APS-C and the Retro dials?
This is a review of travelling with the Fujifilm X-T5 for a month, taking over 4000 photos. There are a million reviews online going into extreme detail on the technical stuff, but often not talking about what it's like to use and live with, and that is precisely what I want to tell you about. I must note I do not do video so no comments from me on that front. Let's go:
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| The screen pulls out this way... |
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| ... and this way |
Build Quality
Accordingly to the online community, the build quality of the XT-5 is terrible. I would neither agree or disagree. It's OK, and just about meets my expectations for the cost and nothing more. It feels solid in the hand with a little bit of heft. The buttons and dials feel nice to press and turn. I would say it is a considerable step up from the likes of the X-M5 which do feel like they it was found in the bottom of a cereal box - but that has been a popular camera so maybe people don't appreciate build quality much.
The paint does not hold up well. In the Previous post I noted that despite the warnings online of the paint wearing off and the black version 'wearing' better than Silver, I went with Silver anyway. 3 weeks of spending almost everyday inside the excellent Bellroy Venture Sling 6L and the paint on the angular edges of the pentaprism and on the edges of the baseplate had worn away, leaving unsightly black marks. This is pretty poor for a few weeks of use and not abused!
The X-T5 is weather sealed. However I don't personally trust Fujifilm's weather sealing and for no real reason I may add. Perhaps it is just how the camera looks and feels, it does not scream 'camera to shoot in pouring rain' to me. Sony cameras on the other hand, because they feel like soulless tools I completely trust their weather sealing and would not hesitate to be out in the rain with one.
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| Paint rubbing off after 3 weeks of travel use |
Handling
The size of the X-T5 will be a big plus point for many. It manages to achieve that goldilocks middle ground of neither being a small or large camera, instead being a true 'medium sized' camera. Now you may think that equates to perfect, but not so. I came to dislike the size over my time with it.
It's really only considered small when used with the pancake lenses (18mm F2 and 27mm F2.8) but those fall short optically for me. Even the F2 Fujicrons are long enough to make it harder to slip in and out of a small bag, and with any of Fuji's top tier lenses the body size becomes truly irrelevant anyway.
It is not small enough to use discretely either. I felt self conscious bringing it out at a restaurant table or on the street in places where the locals may not expect a tourist point a camera around in Japan (though I'm hardly discrete myself at 6'2, pale and with a shaven head) Then again, I'm not one of those 'Street photographers' that defines their genre by rudely sticking my camera into peoples faces without permission.
That all being said, there would not be much gained by it being larger. The only handing improvement to be made is a larger grip. The grip is just about enough, I had no trouble walking with the camera hanging off the end of my fingers but once you start holding the camera up for any period of time with anything other than a lightweight lens, you will notice it. I shot a football match handheld with the 55-200, not a huge or particularly heavy lens by any means, but to my surprise my hand and arm got tired rather quickly. If I knew I would be shooting sports I would have brought my Aftermarket Grip with me as it increases the size of the grip substantially resulting in a more comfortable and secure hold. I just don't like the fact all of these grips make the camera taller and ruin their look.
The Screen is one of my favourites on any camera I have used. Not because of the resolution, which is fantastic, but because of it's operation. It can tilt outwards to face up or down, but it can also tilt outwards in portrait orientation meaning you can take shorts at waist height with the camera turned 90 degrees and see your screen perfectly! I do like fully articulating screens for their ability to face inwards for protection though, so in the case of the X-T5 a screen protector is essential.
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| Fujifilm X-T5 showing top plate controls and aftermarket Grip |
Controls
The reason you buy a retro styled Fujifilm Camera is for the experience of shooting with traditional dials.
I have a teeny bit of shame admitting that before the X-T5 I was always shooting in a priority mode, aperture or shutter depending on what I was shooting. For those not familiar, in these modes you pick the parameter you want to control such as shutter speed, and then the camera will automatically set the other two parameters of the exposure triangle (Aperture and ISO in this case) to give you correct exposure. You then could use an exposure compensation dial to make the image darker or brighter by which the camera would adjust those parameters to suit. It is fast but you lose so much creative control with your shots. The X-T5 changed this for me.
Before I talk more about the dials I'll cover off the other controls, I have no complaints. It has front and rear dials that can be pressed to change the dial function, such as the front could be set to Aperture, press it and it will now control ISO. It has just enough custom buttons for most uses and a joystick on the back with everything falling nicely to hand and a joy to operate. The screen has touch functionality but I disable touch on every camera so cannot comment on it's usability. On the front of the camera you have a physical focus mode switch to select between AF-S, AF-C and MF (Autofocus single, Autofocus Continuous and Manual Focus), I actually prefer this implementation as opposed to a menu dive on other cameras. All in all, the controls on the X-T5 are excellent in terms of usability, customizability and experience.
The only bugbear I had was with the Drive settings and the overall implementation of them. Beneath the ISO dial is a thumb switch that you move left or right to select your drive mode. It is fast and visual but the issue is that it is too easy to knock and cannot be locked. On more than one occasion I was taking unintended HDR Shots. Then there is the implementation of Drive settings. The X-T5 has 7 custom settings whereby you can set and save parameters for easy switching on the fly via the Q menu. Most people use these for saving 7 different custom film recipes but what about those who want custom modes for different types of shooting? The custom modes do not allow you to save Autofocus, Shutter speed or Drive mode. This means if you go from shooting a portrait and suddenly see a bird you want to shoot you aren't going to get that shot, because you'll need probably turn the focus switch to AF-C, turn the shutter to 1/1000, turn the Drive switch to a burst mode and then adjust aperture and ISO for exposure, by this time the bird has gone. Most other cameras have custom modes that allow you to save these parameters, so you are turn of a dial from shooting a portrait to a bird (providing you have capable lens mounted)
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| There is plenty of Dynamic range in the Raw files. 16-50XF f7.1, ISO500, 1/1000 |
Manual exposure with the Dials
By shooting in manual and using the dials you slow down and really think about the photograph you are trying to take, and for me it helped massively in terms of fully understanding the exposure triangle and the effects that each parameter has on your shots. The dials make this easier as you can look down and see your settings, not only that but when walking around you can check your settings without the camera even being turned on. All of the dials have A for automatic settings on them, so you can easily turn any parameter to auto quickly.
In terms of using the dials in full manual it is incredibly easy, and having the physical and visual cues of the dials makes it so, so for beginners here's what you need to know:
Firstly, I recommend determining the shutter speed required. 1/125 is my standard go-to, it will freeze slower motion such as walking or things blowing in a breeze. If there is no movement and you need more light, go lower. The stabilization of the X-T5 means 1/30 is easy to do. Then set your aperture for the depth of field required. F/5.6 is a good starting point to have a scene mostly in focus, and go for a lower number for more subject separation or you simply need more light. Lastly, set the ISO so that the scene is exposed for your liking. If the scene is too bright, firstly decrease your ISO. The lowest ISO of 125 will give the cleanest images in terms of noise, then increase your shutter speed and lastly close your aperture until the exposure is correct.
Every click of the dials is a full stop of light. The difference between one stop of light and the next is double. For example, F2 lets in double the light of F2.8, which in turn is double the light of F4. Same with shutter: 1/30 is double the light of 1/60 and then 1/125. You guessed it, ISO is the same: ISO1600 is twice the gain of ISO800. By understanding this and using the dials you can make adjustments easily. If your shot is properly exposed but you realise you need a faster shutter speed to freeze the action, say you go from 1/125 to 1/500, you have just turned the shutter speed dial 2 clicks, that's two stops. So to maintain the same exposure you need to find 2 clicks somewhere else; you could increase your ISO by 2 stops or open your aperture by 2 stops, or 1 stop of each. It is that simple!
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| SOOC Jpegs are great in the right moments. Classic Negative. 55-200XF at 78mm, f/6.4, ISO 125, 1/500 |
Technical Stuff
I didn't want to get into the technical aspects too much despite me being very much a Technical person, it's just not what this review is about. What I can tell you is the Autofocus is better than what the internet will have you believe, though nowhere near Sony levels. The headline 40MP sensor is excellent. I have not noticed any drawbacks versus a less pixel dense APS-C sensor but it has the major advantage of being able to crop heavily. The Ibis is effective, I managed to take an acceptable nighttime wide angle shot handheld at 1/4, though at a normal focal length you will need a stop or two faster most likely. Decent nonetheless. The X-T5 is excellent from a technical standpoint and nothing really to be concerned about here unless you are pushing it's boundaries whereby a more specialist camera would be a better choice (such as sports)
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| Shooting sports is possible. 55-200XF 105mm, ISO 125, f5, 1/500 |
Workflow
Many people are drawn to Fuji for the JPEGs and the promise of no more time hunched over a computer using Lightroom. Is it an empty promise?
Whilst on holiday, every evening I would spend time processing the images taken from that day. It was exhausting but I knew I had to keep on top of it lest the pile get larger. I trialed a number of different workflows to see what worked best:
Shooting RAW and processing in Lightroom: The standard way to shoot. I could snap away without worrying about perfect exposure as I could fix in Lightroom later. I also had much more control over the image in terms of altering the look and feel via creative adjustments. I was using Lightroom on my Mobile, and the workflow would involve reviewing and culling in-camera, then transferring to my phone via the Fuji X app, editing in Lightroom and exporting.
Shooting JPEG: The promised land. Take the shots and simply transfer to my phone. To shoot JPEG you need to shoot slower. You need to take your time getting as much as you possibly can correct in-camera. In reality this works when you have the time but some lighting situations just won't play nicely with the limited settings that you have. I also found I was cropping, straightening and doing minor edits in Snapseed anyway, so I went back to RAW and lightroom.
Shooting RAW and Processing in Camera: The compromise. If you want to avoid post-processing this is the way to go in my opinion. You can take your shots using your selected film recipe and then you can change them afterwards. When using the in-camera RAW converter you cannot see the changes in real-time - you enter all the settings and create the image, but you can do that as many times as you like with different film sims as well. I used this method quite a bit and I got to the point whereby I could look at a shot and know exactly the adjustments I was going to make to it. One little niggle though is even if you have your SD Cards set to RAW on 1 and JPEG on 2, JPEGs made using the RAW converter will go to card 1, which from an archiving perspective I found mildly annoying.
I am sticking with shooting RAW but having JPEG as a backup. I just have so much more control over the RAW files. I really want to shoot in JPEG though but I get FOMO - I feel like I'm missing out on the potential that a shot has.
What is your workflow?
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| Fujifilm XF Lens: Left to Right: 55-200, 50f2, 23f2 and 16-50 |
Lenses
I was very satisfied with the lenses I bought, and I took all 4 of them to Japan and used them all extensively. I won't go into too much detail other than brief comments on each, but I'll make sure to note on some photos which lens was used.
Fujifilm 23mm f/2 lens: I'm not a fan of 35mm equivalent as I find it boring. The focal length does excel for documentary type shots and I used it extensively for that, just recording a scene so I can use it in a blog post later type thing. Nice quality build, fast focus and weather sealed. Good image quality and F2 makes it versatile.
Fujifilm 50mm f/2 lens: A perfect partner for the 23mm. Although it is very close to a portrait focal length it is surprisingly useful for general use and it is incredibly sharp. One of my favourite ever lenses.
Fujifilm 16-50 f/2.8-4.5 lens: I bought this because the 16-55 II was not available. Variable aperture aside, the 16-50 is incredible. Sharp, fast focusing, internal zoom and small size. I ended up using this more than the primes because the quality was very close and it saved me from lens swaps, only using the primes when light was scarce.
Fujifilm 55-200 f/3.5-4.8 lens: I opted for this over the 70-300 because of the size. It blew me away with how good it is. I used this whenever I was shooting animals and also used it to shoot a football match. It performed better than expected and is super sharp in the centre. No weather sealing though.
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| The 40mp sensor has lots of detail for pixel peepers. XF23f2 f/2.8, ISO125, 1/2000 |
Conclusion
In my humble opinion, the best way to use a retro styled Fujifilm camera such as the X-T5 or X100VI is when you can take your time with the creative process to compose and adjust your settings including film simulations, in the aim of shooting JPEGs and getting it nailed straight out of camera with no need to edit later. That is what it is all about and Fuji does it better than anyone.
If you are shooting fast because of time pressure situations and then spending time in Lightroom later fixing everything then there are cameras that will do that much better for you and frustrate you less.
The X-T5 is the best retro styled camera all things considered. It is all about the experience. It has the looks, the feels and the technical ability to match. Most importantly, It is fun and has you wanting to go out just so you can take photos.
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| The X-T5 is a bit big for bringing out at the dining table but it can be done. 23F2, f2, ISO400, 1/125 |
Is it a Keeper?
If you've read any of my posts on photography gear, particularly the one about G.A.S, you won't be surprised to learn I no longer own the X-T5. This takes nothing away from the X-T5, it is a brilliant camera, it is just not for me as I prefer modern style controls and ergonomics.
I had been looking very closely at the Fujifilm X-H2 as a potential replacement and it is the 'Professional' sibling to the X-T5. It shares the same 40MP sensor, with the same menu's and film simulations but in a larger body with modern controls. It handles much better with large zooms, which means you do not have to pick lenses based on aesthetically matching the styling of the X-T5. It feels sturdier and more durable in hand, and best of all, you can now actually save Drive and Focus settings to the the custom modes, Hallelujah!
The X-H2 is the next logical step in the Fujifilm lineup, as so far with all of the Fujifilm cameras I have owned, I have been slowly working my way through them methodically each time selecting based on things I did not like about the previous model, and the X-H2 basically is the perfect camera for me in the Fujifilm XF system. Selecting my next camera is a big call as I want to make the transition from hobby photography / gear head to also doing some paid work on the side when we move to Japan, and no matter how good I think these Fujifilm Cameras are, and feel like there is nothing lacking in my photos, I still have the slightly irrational feeling that I have to have full frame, so I'll have to wrangle with that when making my decision.
Back to the X-T5 though, this is a perfect camera for a hobbyist who loves the style, the controls, is stills focused and wants to run with smaller lenses. For those with a 'big camera' or maybe does Pro work, the X-T5 is a great option as a fun camera for when you want to slow down and enjoy the process, rather than using your 'work tools' for fun, because that doesn't really work for many.
Sample photos
Here is a little selection of photos taken on the X-T5, selected for their variety of subjects, conditions and lenses used.
Product Links (Amazon)
Fujifilm X-T5 Camera: https://amzn.to/3GvSz1p
Fujifilm X-T5 Camera Grip: https://amzn.to/42Vdjal
Fujifilm X-H2 Camera: https://amzn.to/44XIUuC
Fujifilm 23mm f/2 lens: https://amzn.to/4jT27lz
Fujifilm 50mm f/2 lens: https://amzn.to/3YMGgnI
Fujifilm 16-50 f/2.8-4.5 lens: https://amzn.to/42wE324
Fujifilm 55-200 f/3.5-4.8 lens: https://amzn.to/42Ok9ym
Bellroy Venture Sling 6L: https://amzn.to/44U5nJ9
Sony A7CII Camera: https://amzn.to/4k4FACx
The Amazon links for products mentioned in this post are affiliate links. If you happen to purchase after using a link I may receive a commission to help support this site, and it does not cost you anything extra!
